I arrived in late February 2020 and intended to stay three-ish weeks. Of course, 2020 had other plans—I didn’t leave for five months. My adopted neighborhood of Roma Norte had everything I needed, from rooftop sunrises and volcano views. Famous cocktail bars that had catered to tourists, like Licoreía Limantour, a few blocks away, pivoted to deliver at-home cocktail kits. I felt lucky to experience the city in such a quiet moment.
I was last there in 2022. Just like old times, I took laps around Avenida Amsterdam, a former race track for horses that, today, is still one of the prettiest residential streets I’ve ever seen. There’s a raised, tree-lined pedestrian walkway that runs the full circle, and in the center of it all, the iconic Parque Mexico brings new meaning to ‘urban jungle’.
Roma Norte is more touristy than a few years ago, but it still feels like home. There’s Tomas Té, my favorite loose leaf tea café; men selling fresh cherries or dried insects by the bucket; dogwalkers wrangling several leashes; skateboarders practicing tricks on an empty stage; furniture ‘stores’ and houseplant sales operating out of the backs of trucks; the occasional vendor hacking off the tops of coconuts with a machete. Like any big city, there are a million things to do in CDMX, but beyond its galleries and museums, there’s nowhere on Earth I’d rather go back to, watching life unfold around me.
Kassondra Cloos is Adventure.com’s news and gear writer. From Rhode Island and living in London, she focuses on slow travel, urban outdoor spaces and human-powered adventure. Read her stories on Adventure.com here