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Desperate for work, Onesimus Laa left his home and family, and turned to crime in the Indonesian capital of Jakarta, joining one of the country’s most feared gangs. But when he returned to his home island of Alor, he found a paradise in crisis... and was determined to turn his, and the island’s, fortunes around.

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With surging international and domestic travel, 2025 will be a record-breaking year for Vietnam’s tourism industry. Hanoi-based writer Joshua Zukas hits the busy streets of Hội An and asks: Will anything be done to protect communities from the downsides of overtourism, or are the spoils simply too tempting to pass up?

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