Following a period of regional disruption, Jordan is continuing to focus on diversifying tourism beyond Petra and Wadi Rum, with the Northern Highlands emerging as a greener, less-visited region of Roman ruins, forest reserves and community-based travel experiences.
Madeline Croad: “I love its [Umm Qais] vast ruins, black basalt stone buildings, and Roman columns and theater.”
Where is it? Stretching from the town of Umm Qais down to the north of Amman, Jordan’s Northern Highlands is a green oasis of historical ruins, sprawling forest hikes, and views over the Jordan Valley.
Why I love it: The drive from the bustling capital of Amman to the Northern Highlands took just an hour, but it felt like I’d arrived in a different country. Roadside coffee stands and rolling hills soon enveloped the landscape, before I arrived in the city of Jerash.
Zoubia Forest near the ancient city of Jerash, was dense and wild. While I lost my bearings, the track ended up leading me to a local, who ushered me along a path to ruins of old wine presses near Burqush Cave dating back to the Roman and Byzantine era. Not on any map, I might easily have missed them.
After a history lesson in the middle of the forest, he pointed in a vague direction, and I continued to hike through terrain that reminded me of the rolling hills back home in the South Island of New Zealand. But less than an hour later, I was wandering around the halls of the 12th-century Ajloun Castle.
Further in the Highlands, closer to the Syrian border, sits the town of Umm Qais, frequently visited for its proximity to the ancient Greco-Roman city of Gadara. I love its vast ruins, black basalt stone buildings, and Roman columns and theater, a distinctly different feel to cities in southern Jordan.
I’m excited for travelers to… Explore the ancient city of Gadara. Sit outside at Um Qais Rest House and eat traditional Jordanian dishes such as hummus, fatteh (layered pita, chickpeas and tahini) and mutabbal (eggplant dip) with khubz (bread). On a clear day, look left to appreciate the ruins and beyond them, a view of Syria, Palestine and Lebanon. It’s a a Jordanian experience unlike any other.
About the writer: Madeline Croad is an award-winning freelance multimedia journalist from New Zealand. Currently based in Amman, Jordan, she corresponds from the MENA region and specializes in social issues. Her work has appeared in WIRED Middle East, Stuff NZ, Al Jazeera, The Press and more.