“Are you having a fuuuuunky day?” Chris Gill, the owner and bioluminescent mascot of Melbourne’s Northside Records, bellows the moment I step inside his baby blue-hued house of wax.
A bushel of graying curls bops around the counter, mega-watt smile catching the light from an oval-shaped disco ball designed to look like the iconically oblong Australian Rules football. Surprise Chef is blasting. Solo music heads are flipping through crates. A mum and daughter are listening to Amy Winehouse’s Frank at a turntable. Tourists are nabbing selfies in front of an ‘I Heart James Brown’ poster.
Northside Records is one of Melbourne’s most beloved record stores. Founded in 2002, it specializes in jazz, funk, hip-hop, soul—“Grooooove-based stuff,” says Gill. And in that time, it’s ballooned into a living, wiggling, ever-evolving home to Melbourne’s incredible neo-soul scene, a place where musicians hang out, play gigs, sign records, the heartbeat at the center of Melbourne’s inner-city hipster hub, Fitzroy. Visit on the right day and you might see Hiatus Kaiyote performing, George Clinton signing records or even Mark Ronson having a dig.
Cross the road to Smith Street, Collingwood and you’ll find The Searchers, a record store chock-full of rare finds with a special flair for uncovering gems from the heavier end of the music spectrum. On the same street, you can drop into Plug Seven, Wah Wah records, Happy Valley and Skydiver––a dance music record store that flips into a bar with DJs on the weekends. In fact, within 1.5 square miles (2.5 square kilometers) of this strip, there’s a shop slinging vinyl roughly every 1,000 feet (350 meters).
Melbourne officially has more record stores per capita than any other city on Earth. With a population of 5.5 million, it has 5.9 stores per 100,000 residents, more per person than Tokyo, London and Berlin, and with a total of 119 record stores, the city is home to half of Australia’s independent vinyl outlets. But why?