With its surf beaches, active volcanoes and ancient Mayan ruins, El Salvador is emerging as one of the world’s fastest-growing travel destinations, thanks to an effective crackdown on crime. But beyond the beaches and a couple of hours from the capital San Salvador is the 22-mile (36-kilometer) scenic Ruta de las Flores through the western highlands, connecting five colonial-era towns, and known for coffee plantations, waterfalls, murals, food markets and mountain air.
Laura French: “Finding undiscovered spots like this can be rare in today’s world, but that was the real magic of El Salvador for me.”
“I didn’t know what to expect when I went to El Salvador. But I found flower-bedecked villages, tumbling waterfalls, aquamarine lakes and stark volcanic landscapes. That combination was at its best on the Ruta de las Flores, a 22-mile stretch of smooth, winding road through the country’s western highlands, stringing together five colonial-era towns. I drove between them by moped, wind in the hair, mountains billowing around, stopping at eclectic markets and historic coffee fincas.
Every town had its quaint market square and a church built by the Spanish colonialists, set between cobbled, hilly streets; I especially loved Concepcíon de Ataco—all sleepy charm and tranquil garden cafes—and Juayúa, which packs out on Saturdays with a weekly food festival.
Feeling adventurous one day, I booked a ‘seven waterfalls’ hike with a local guide that had me scaling various rockfaces as curtains of water crashed down in the jungle. But it was the unexpected finds, discovered on half-accidental diversions, that really charmed me; Los Ausoles, where clouds of geothermal steam burst out from the earth; Santa Teresa hot springs, where I dipped into bath-warm pools, sulphur rising from the rock; and Cascada La Golondrinera, a tucked-away waterfall etched into marbled cliffs, and no-one around.
Finding undiscovered spots like this can be rare in today’s world, but that was the real magic of El Salvador for me. It isn’t yet touristy enough for it to be overrun, and you feel like you’re constantly discovering something new.”
Laura French is a UK-based freelance travel writer with a passion for all things outdoors. She has written for National Geographic Traveller, Wanderlust, Rough Guides, The Independent, The Telegraph, The i Paper, Culture Trip, Lonely Planet and others, and was formerly deputy features editor at Travel Weekly UK.