There’s no denying the catastrophic impact climate change is having—and will have—on the planet. But in Norway, melting glaciers are revealing immaculately preserved relics from the Viking Age.
At the Leirvassbu Mountain Lodge, a way-station for Norwegian trekkers since the late 19th century, the young man behind the desk tells us what to expect on a day hike up Kyrkja summit, known as ‘The Church’ for its sky-piercing spire.
“It looks like it’s straight up,” he says nonchalantly, “but don’t worry, it isn’t really. You’ll be able to pull yourself up using the rocks.” He mimes a sort-of mountain climber stance, alternately lifting his knees high and raising his arms overhead. I shoot my partner a glance. It’s just what we were looking for.