Applying for a tourist visa can be a pain. But the citizens of Uzbekistan need a visa to leave. The result? A huge domestic tourism market. Central Asia travel expert Caroline Eden joins the locals as they go adventuring in their homeland.

Next time you groan while filling in a tourist visa form, spare a thought for the citizens of Uzbekistan. While many countries demand a visa for tourists to enter, a handful of countries ask their nationals to apply for a visa in order to leave. Uzbekistan is one such country.

Cuba, by comparison, scrapped its exit visas in 2013. But along with Saudi Arabia and North Korea, Uzbek citizens—for now—still need to apply for an exit visa to go to a country outside the Commonwealth of Independent States (a large swathe of the former Soviet Union) and sometimes Tajikistan and Turkmenistan, depending on the political climate.