While Croatia enjoys the limelight as a ‘set-jetting’ hotspot thanks to iconic shows and movies like Game of Thrones and Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, the Kornati archipelago quietly carves out a niche of its own. Sakhita Sharma meets one couple who left the mainland for a back-to-basics idyll.
Sakhita Sharma was one of four mentees who participated in Intrepid’s first Diversifying Travel Media press trip in September 2023 alongside three fellow mentees/aspiring travel journalists and four mentors/established travel writers and editors.
Standing at 237 meters above sea level on Metlina, the highest peak of the Kornati Islands, I’m immersed in the landscape of Kornat, the largest among the 89 islands, islets and rocks of the once sheep-filled archipelago.
The view is spectacular. Below me, rippling turquoise waters, which comprise 75 percent of Kornati National Park’s area, stretch out endlessly. Above, the sky is a captivating blue that mirrors the sea’s hue, and behind, a panorama of white rocks glistens under the sun. The travel clichés become a vivid reality. Yet, life in this idyllic setting is not without challenges.
A few years ago, in response to climate change, overtourism and population growth, it’s said that jackals swam from the Lika region on the mainland to Kornat Island via the strait of Dugi Otok, arriving to eat the livestock, although there’s no firm evidence of this. What is clear is that in recent years, unpredictable weather conditions have damaged large amounts of olive groves, resulting in reduced yields.
Accompanying me is local photographer, Ivica Matic. As we reach the summit, he recites an old Croatian adage: “You never forget your first love, and here, it’s on the rocks, quite literally.”
He tells me that when a boy reaches maturity here, he’s on the lookout for his ‘stone-mate,’ the rock that will become the cornerstone of his future home. Akin to courting, finding the right one requires patience and persistence—but once discovered, it becomes a lifelong companion.
Embracing the challenge of residency here, they engaged in the Mediterranean Experience of Ecotourism (MEET), a network founded in 2018 by conservationists, to foster eco-conscious travel initiatives.
This ritual, a rite of passage handed down through generations, symbolizes the connection between the islanders and their island. As Ivica’s words trail off, he nods towards Jakov Šikić, our guide and island resident, who is skilfully navigating the unmarked goat path below us.
Shouldering a large dolomite slab, it’s like a scene from a coming-of-age tale. His tender actions are filled with care and connection, and interwoven with Ivica’s narrative, it feels cinematic. It reflects the romanticism that has recently drawn filmmakers to Croatia, not only highlighting its natural beauty but also contributing to its growing appeal, transforming its once-secluded spots into sought-after destinations. Yet, beyond the silver-screen allure lies the realities of unsustainability, the looming villain in the story of Kornati.
Turning his back on a life of urban frenzy, Jakov, together with his wife Ana and their children, settled on the Kornati Islands a few years ago, trading the clamor of the mainland for the serenity of the Adriatic gem alongside a community of seasonal farmers.
Embracing the challenge of living here full-time, they engaged in the Mediterranean Experience of Ecotourism (MEET), a network founded in 2018 by conservationists, to foster eco-conscious travel initiatives. The network champions responsible travel that not only celebrates but also preserves the Mediterranean’s cultural and natural heritage, all while ensuring the prosperity of local communities.
MEET’s mission, which extends across seven Mediterranean countries—Albania, Croatia, France, Greece, Italy, Lebanon, and Spain–is to harmonize tourism with the preservation of natural beauty, a cause that Jakov and Ana have wholeheartedly adopted as their life’s work. Their family-run pop-up shop exemplifies this commitment, replacing typical tourist trinkets with handcrafted keepsakes and eco-friendly goods that support the island’s economy. Here, visitors find souvenirs like sage honey and handmade soaps—true tokens of the land’s essence–to take home.
During my visit, the couple’s olive oil-tasting event became a testament to MEET’s principles, as they detailed their methods for achieving high-quality yields without compromising ecological integrity. During the session, Ana explained that the oil’s smooth, rich texture was a sign of its purity.
Slightly bitter notes followed by a peppery kick that tingled at the back of the throat were evidence of the oil’s antioxidant properties, a hallmark of careful cultivation. As we sampled the oils, fresh and grassy scents were prominent, carrying hints of the groves and the sea breeze that sweeps through the islands, capturing the essence of the landscape in every taste.
“He’s building a future for his family, rooted in tradition, sustainability and regeneration … This land gives us everything, but we’ve forgotten how to be wild, how to connect.”
- Ivica Matic, photographer
Ana’s candle-making workshop was another vivid illustration of their commitment to eco-friendly practices. Gathered around a weathered wooden table, we immersed ourselves in the craft of shaping fresh, natural honey-scented beeswax sheets, with the tranquil hum of solitary bees as our backdrop.
Ana guided us through her two candle-rolling techniques, each yielding distinct shapes—either short and stubby or tall and elegant. As we worked, the warmth of our hands softened the wax with ease, its rich golden hue capturing the sunlight that beamed overhead
As we trek down the meandering paths towards Kravljačica Bay where we arrived from our ride over from Šibenik, Jakov stops and gazes towards the horizon. I feel he’s really taking stock of the life he’s built here with Ana, far from the frenetic pace of the mainland—I feel I’m looking at the profile of a man who is the hero of his own story, a harbinger of hope.
Ivica is clearly in awe of Jakov’s dedication to rekindling a bond with the earth. “He’s building a future for his family, rooted in tradition, sustainability and regeneration,” Ivica tells me, adding, “This land gives us everything, but we’ve forgotten how to be wild, how to connect.”
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This trip was based on Intrepid’s Croatia: Sibenik & the Kornati Islands itinerary. Find out more about it here and find out more about Croatia through Explore Croatia‘s (the national tourist board) mobile app.
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Sakhita Sharma is an award-winning multimedia storyteller driven by a passion for intertwining artistry with advocacy. Specializing in human-interest stories, and conscious and community-based travel, Sakhita's work offers a fresh look at familiar places by amplifying overlooked narratives and the marginalized voices she encounters.
