Papua New Guinea expert, Ian Lloyd Neubauer, visits a remote lodge on Lake Murray, accessible only via light aircraft. The lake is home to the enormous black bass and, as the local hunter-gatherer tribes believe, a gigantic Loch Ness-type monster. A good destination for a spot of fishing, then.

The nimble PAC 750XL nine-seater swoops above dense pillows of clouds after taking off from Mount Hagen, PNG’s third largest city. Accompanying me in the cabin is a pilot from New Zealand, five fanatical fishermen from Australia, and their eccentric guide Pip Clement. “We are going to go places where no sport fishermen have ever been,” Pip announces as our aircraft pops through the clouds to reveal the untouched jungles of Western Province. There’s nothing but treetops as far as the eye can see.

An hour after take-off, we reach the eastern edge of Lake Murray. The body of water is not round, as I’d expected, but octopus-shaped with tentacles that morph into serpentine rivers. The largest of these is the Strickland, which merges into the Fly, which empties into the Coral Sea, the body of water dividing Australia and PNG.