We cycle across sandbars to Shintō shrines in one of Japan’s artisanal heartlands

One of the best things about traveling in Japan is how distinct each region feels. There’s a deep-rooted sense of pride in each area’s culture, its place in the national mythology, heritage crafts and local cuisine. The northern island of Hokkaidō is steeped in the history and spirituality of the Indigenous Ainu people; practitioners of Shugendō mountain worship still commune with nature in Dewa Sanzan; and in the ancient capital of Nara, once the most powerful Buddhist centre in Japan, the great Buddha of Tōdai-ji has serenely witnessed the passing of the centuries.

Each time I’m in northern Kyōto prefecture, I’m especially struck by its peaceful atmosphere. In Japan’s native Shintō religion, gods reside in each rock and tree, and the divinity of nature feels close in this coastal region.

Perhaps this is why my memories from here are so vivid: Digging my fingers into damp white sand speckled with pine needles; sitting warm and cozy with fresh sashimi and sake as rain lashes the sea outside; bracingly cold water, drunk fresh from the spring.

The Tango region in northern Kyōto, certified by Japan Heritage—a two-and-a-half-hour train ride north of Kyōto city—is the perfect place to escape into Japan’s spectacular nature, while still immersing yourself in its unique traditions. And even better: You can explore the whole region by bike, with both bicycles and e-bikes available to rent from several locations including the tourist information center in Miyazu, the region’s gateway city.

As someone who has spent many a day cycling and soaking in the cultural experiences of this prefecture, here are the eight experiences I’d recommend in the region:

Between its waterside location and serene grounds, I found Chion-ji to be the perfect place for peaceful reflection—maybe even poetic inspiration.

Head to a traditional tatami mat-making class in Miyazu city

That delicate, grassy scent in traditional Japanese houses comes from tatami, the woven rush mats used to naturally balance temperature and humidity. Travelers can take a peek inside one of these workshops at Miyazu city’s Tatamiya Tatsuzō.

A 10-minute cycle from Miyazu station, which is linked to Kyōto city by direct train, Tatamiya Tatsuzō is a family-run business spanning four generations. With English-speaking Megumi Kawada as your guide, you’ll learn about the natural materials, like compressed rice straw and rush grass, used to make the mats; observe the artisans as they skilfully navigate the complexities of a traditional loom; and make your own tatami coaster. Beyond the history of Tatamiya Tatsuzō, Kawada can also share local stories as you explore the city’s castle ruins, stroll along willow-draped canals, and admire the sweeping views over Miyazu Bay.

Cycle to Chion-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple that's over 500-years-old

Just a 1.5-mile (2.4-kilometer) ride from Miyazu city, you’ll find Chion-ji. Also known as Monju-dō, it’s one of Japan’s three major sites dedicated to the Monju Bosatsu deity, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom. It’s also known for a pagoda said to be the tomb of Izumi Shikibu, a 10th-century noblewoman considered one of Japan’s great medieval poets.

Between its waterside location and serene grounds, I found Chion-ji to be the perfect place for peaceful reflection—maybe even poetic inspiration. You can buy omikuji (fortunes, which range from ‘great blessings’ to ‘great curse’) in the form of tiny folding fans. Many people leave their fortunes hanging in the pine trees around the temple to ‘wait’ there (both ‘wait’ and ‘pine tree’ are pronounced matsu). The sight and sound of the fortunes swaying in the trees gives the temple a charming, literary atmosphere.

Cross the ‘Bridge to Heaven’ 

Right next to Chion-ji is the southern entrance to the spectacular Amanohashidate ‘Bridge to Heaven.’ This 2.2-mile (3.6-kilometer) sandbar is lined with over 6,000 pine trees, a bold green brush stroke across the blue bay, to which the heavenly painter added finer details in white—the delicate curves of sandy beaches along its eastern edge.

It takes about 50 minutes to walk across, or 20 to cycle. I ended up taking longer, though, pausing several times to lean my bike against a tree and lounge on a bench with a view, or to paddle in the clear water. You can admire the isthmus from a sightseeing boat, but the best views of it are either from land or a chairlift—accessed from stations at both ends of the sandbar—for a birds-eye perspective.

Enjoy a peaceful interlude at Manai-jinja

Just as a Buddhist temple overlooks the sandbar’s southern edge, a Shintō shrine stands guard to the north: Motoise Kono-jinja. Shintō is Japan’s indigenous, animistic religion, in which people pray to the many spirits for good fortune. Buddhism, which was brought to Japan in the sixth century, is focused on attaining enlightenment to transcend the cycle of suffering and rebirth. Japan is very syncretic, with most people observing traditions from both religions, and you’ll often see shrines and temples sharing sites.

Just 10 minutes’ walk from Motoise Kono-jinja’s main precinct is its okumiya (rear shrine), Manai-jinja. As you climb a stone staircase to the shrine, trees swaying overhead, the deep-rooted spirituality of the place washes over you. There’s evidence of worship here 2,500 years ago, with Jōmon- and Yayoi-era tools including stone axes and ritual pottery fragments excavated around the sacred Iwakura rock formation.

Also in the precincts is a sacred spring, which produces pure, clear water known as Ame no Manai no Mizu. You’re welcome to refresh yourself with a cup of this divine water, or even fill up a bottle.

Whichever local specialty you try, there’s one word you’ll need: “Umya,” or “delicious” in the local dialect.

Admire the view from Kasamatsu-kōen

After filling my cup both literally and spiritually at Manai-jinja, I walked back down past Motoise Kono-jinja and on to Fuchū Station. From there, I took a short ride on the chairlift up to Kasamatsu-kōen, a famous Amanohashidate viewpoint. For the very best view at the top adopt the matanozoki stance: bent over, looking through your legs. I gave it a try, and found that with the world inverted, the name ‘Bridge to Heaven’ made perfect sense. The sandbar looked as though it was floating in the air, leading to another world.

Stay in a funaya, the boat houses of Ine

Head up the peninsula from Amanohashidate—the cyclable eight-and-a-half-mile (14-kilometer) route sticks to a paved road, mostly hugging the shoreline—towards Ine, one of the most uniquely picturesque fishing towns in Japan. As you round the final corner before Ine Bay, you’ll be greeted by the sight of dozens of low, wooden funaya (boat houses) clustered at the water’s edge, forested slopes rising behind them.

These small houses were built partially over the water, so the owners could sail their boats right into them and live on the floor above. Several have been converted into cafés or guesthouses, and I stayed in a funaya on the east side of the bay. Wanting to see Ine from a different angle, I jumped in a water taxi—which pulled right up to my funaya, so I could step from my dining area onto the deck—and spent a memorable hour marveling at fish darting through the clear sea, the higgledy-piggledy houses, and the mysterious Aoshima, an uninhabited sacred island.

Try the local Kyōto by the Sea delicacies 

Naturally, seafood is a must-try. In Ine, you can enjoy rich, creamy iwagaki (rock oysters) from the bay’s sheltered waters, perhaps paired with a delicious nihonshu from Mukai sake brewery. Mukai Kuniko, Kyōto’s first official female head brewer, used an ancient variety of red rice to create her Ine Mankai, which has both a well-balanced flavor and bright, eye-catching color. 

Back down on the Amanohashidate sandbar, local favorites include kuro-chikuwa, a flavorful fish cake made from locally-caught blue-backed fish such as sardines and mackerel, which is served simply grilled at Hashidate Chaya. The menu at this relaxed teahouse also features asari-don (clam rice bowl), another local delicacy. I stopped off here on my return cycle, restoring my energy with the rich, umami taste of the kuro-chikuwa and a cup of green tea.

There are four historic teahouses clustered around Chion-ji, at the southern end of the sandbar, including Kanhichi Chaya, open since 1690. Try the chie no mochi, rice cakes topped with koshian (smooth, sweet azuki-bean paste) that are said to grant you wisdom, with a cup of traditional green tea. They also serve mochi dusted in sweet, nutty kinako (soybean flour), a favorite of mine, so unable to choose between wisdom and kinako, I ordered both.

Whichever local specialty you try, there’s one word you’ll need: “Umya,” or “delicious” in the local dialect.

Life in Kyōto by the Sea is defined by these ancient rhythms. From the clack-clack of looms to the gentle sloshing of waves against funaya, to the sonorous ring of temple bells, these sounds have been heard for centuries.

Explore 300 years of silk weaving

From the stiff gray hakama trousers of stern samurai to a maiko’s ornate obi belt, much of Japan’s traditional clothing is made of silk. Even today, you’ll spot people wearing elegant silk kimono, scarves or bags. For three centuries, this region has produced a fine variety of raw, creped silk called chirimen, which involves twisting the weft roughly 3,000 times per one meter, and it still makes about 60 per cent of Japan’s top kimono silk.

From the north end of the Amanohashidate sandbar, it’s an eight-and-a-half-mile (14-kilometer) cycle to the Tango Chirimen History Museum. If you’re not up for the full ride, you can catch a train to Yosano station, reducing the bike ride to just three miles (5 kilometers). This museum, an active factory until the early Shōwa era (1930s), now offers travelers a chance to observe the specialized production process of the Tango Chirimen and shop for silk.

Also worth visiting is Chirimen Kaidō (Chirimen Street), lined with hataya—weaving workshops that double as artisans’ homes. You’ll hear the pleasant, rhythmic clatter of the looms emanating from them all along the street.

Life around the Tango region is defined by these ancient rhythms. From the clack-clack of looms to the gentle sloshing of waves against funaya to the sonorous ring of temple bells, these sounds have been heard for centuries. Perhaps this is what gives the area a sense of calm, a feeling of rootedness in its traditions, even as modern innovations like chairlifts and e-bikes make its beautiful landscapes more accessible than ever.

Japan Heritage, a program by Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs, is an exceptional resource for travelers looking for insight into Japan’s lesser-known attractions and cultural traditions, like those in Tango Chirimen Kaidō. Japan Heritage is dedicated to showcasing Japan’s unique culture and traditions through its local regions. Travelers can also download Japan Heritage guides and access photos, helping bring to life a dream Japan itinerary.  

****

A note on partnership content:

Adventure.com acknowledges the complexity and challenges of travel in the context of our global climate crisis. This article is part of Adventure.com’s paid partnerships program, which enables us to continue publishing stories about a more regenerative and sustainable future of travel by helping to make out platform commercially viable. Adventure.com only partners with brands and products that align with our ethical and editorial standards, and our vision for a future of travel built around lower emissions, deeper connection and more resilient communities.