Building a wall between America and these tacos? A crime against humanity finds Washington, DC, food author Nevin Martell as he eats his way through Mexico City.

At the bottom of the café’s menu board, there were two phrases spelled out in white plastic letters: ‘Make coffee great again’ and ‘F*ck you Trump.’

I smiled. These were the boosts I badly needed.

It had been a long day— just a couple hours of sleep, a wakeup in the predawn darkness, a pair of cab rides, and two flights—to get my wife, our four-year-old son, and me from our home base outside Washington, DC, to Mexico City, otherwise known as CDMX. We were staying in a modest hotel in the bustling, boho-meets-Soho Roma Norte neighborhood, just west of the city center. While my family stayed in the room to unpack and unwind, I had headed out in desperate search of caffeine.