Sicily is well-known for its coastal towns—and for its culture of emigration en masse. But today, the region is experiencing an economic and population crisis. Could a new cycling route through the little-visited heart of the island bring enough money—and life—back to the island to make a difference?
The lights on the mountains dips in and out of view as our van winds its way along the northern coast of Sicily long after sunset. It was much more undulating than I’d expected, making me reconsider if cycling across the island was a good idea.
“We had such a hot summer last year, you picked a good time to come—if you don’t mind a bit of rain,” says Giovanni, one of the creators of The Sicily Divide bike trail. “In Palermo, it hit 40 degrees [Celsius] some days. The buses were sinking into the melting streets. We all need to be more mindful about what we do.”
I’ve always tried to travel mindfully, but this bike trip is my first conscientious experience with regenerative tourism. And aside from the obvious pressures of climate change, Sicily is also battling a huge depopulation problem. It’s estimated that the population has declined by 200,888 since 2011, a drop of four percent. An aging population and low birth rates play a part, but many young people leave for better work opportunities in northern Italy and abroad. Those who stay risk being part of the 37.5 percent of young Sicilians not in work, education or training.
Leaving Sicily isn’t a recent phenomenon—the island has a tradition of emigration. World War I caused Sicilians to sail to the USA en masse and this happened again after WWII. Now, because of serious economic reasons, people are leaving once more. Towns lie empty, with some selling homes for as little as €1 in an attempt to attract people to the area.
“The Divide has added value not only from an economic point of view, but it’s been really rewarding to help cyclists from all over the world. I’ve met some great people who share my love for cycling.”
- Alessandro Cerro
The Sicily Divide trail was created in hopes to bring employment to the island and regenerate the economy (and, by proxy, the population). It’s a 285-mile-long self-guided bike tour that runs from Trapani on the west coast to Catania on the east coast through the central parts of the island, where few tourists go. It’s a deliberate attempt to draw people away from the coast to areas of Sicily that suffer the worst from depopulation, and are in desperate need of income. Giovanni and his partner Danuta have worked with existing infrastructure like restaurants, bike shops and lodging to create an all-in-one resource for adventure cyclists.
The climbs in Sicily are steep, relentless and plentiful. After the most challenging ascent on the route to Enna, a brake-melting descent down back roads leads me to Leonforte, a comune of 14,000 people. Here, for most of those who stay, farming peaches, beans and lentils pays the bills.
But tucked among the markets and crates of produce you’ll find Alessandro Cerro, the owner of Ale Bike Lab, a meticulously organized and brilliantly clean bike shop in the center of the town. “The bond with my town is strong, so I decided to start a business so that I could stay in my local area and not leave my nearest and dearest,” he says.
Alessandro faces a battle. Where many have left, he has decided to stay close to his home and create a job for himself in an industry he loves—and that has a presence here. The 2014 Tour de France winner Vincenzo Nibali is from nearby Messina, but cycling still remains largely undeveloped away from the coast. Since its launch in 2020, The Sicily Divide has led a stream of cyclists to the square in Leonforte, where I watch people gather and order an espresso with cornetto for breakfast.
“The Divide has had a positive impact on my business,” says Alessandro. “It’s added value not only from an economic point of view but it’s been really rewarding to help cyclists from all over the world. I’ve met some great people who share my love for cycling.”
Further on the Sicily Divide, that love of cycling is finding a new community in Montedoro, a town with a population of just 1,751. The old sulphur mining town now tries to draw in tourists with a mining museum, observatory and unique accommodations. But these initiatives are relatively recent and the town has seen high levels of depopulation over the past century.
“My dad remembers the emigration of the ‘60s very well,” says Davide Petix, the owner of Albergo Diffuso Montedoro, a local hotel. “Seventy percent of his classmates left Montedoro to move to northern Italy or abroad.” Davide is now determined to make Montedoro a place where he can stay.
It’s estimated that over 5,000 people will cycle the route in 2023. Even if they keep to the lower end of the spending scale, that’s €1,750,000 into the local economy—enough for 67 people to earn the average Sicilian salary of €26,000.
Davide runs Albergo Diffuso Montedoro, which means “Spread Hotel Montedoro,” with his father. They’ve taken abandoned office buildings, schools and social centers across the town and turned them into hotels and B&Bs.
“The initiative got a lot of criticism from political opponents—most thought it was crazy to imagine that tourists would come to such a small town with no major attractions, so far away from the coast,” Davide says. “But it was never our intention to compete with famous tourist attractions from Sicily. Instead, we created an alternative for those who want to experience an authentic Sicilian town with a slow pace of life.”
The approach may prove to be a shrewd one. By identifying different target markets within the tourism sector, Davide has created a niche product that people are willing to travel for and cycle to. Right now, cyclists make up 15 percent of Davide’s reservations. “The economic situation is uncertain and it’s hard to know what will happen. But since some of our competitors are closing, it’s vital to resist doing the same.”
“If the number of Dividers keeps increasing, and it seems like they will, it’ll have an even bigger impact on the people of Montedoro,” Davide adds. “Right now it doesn’t give economic support to everyone in the town, but it’s good advertising and it creates a new connection with other little towns along the path of The Sicily Divide.”
The Sicily Divide might not move the needle when it comes to the official reports on Sicily’s depopulation problem just yet, but lives aren’t lived in spreadsheets—they’re lived in towns and communities. There’s a real difference being made on the ground. I spent seven days on the route spending an average of €50 a day—€350 total—on food and accommodation, not including bike rental or transport. It’s estimated that over 5,000 people will cycle the route in 2023. Even if they keep to the lower end of the spending scale like me, that’s €1,750,000 into the local economy—enough for 67 people to earn the average Sicilian salary of €26,000.
Despite all the challenges, Davide still thinks of Sicily as a special place. “Most of the little towns here have a very strong identity, with different dialects, different histories, and different landscapes. They’re like small islands inside the big island of Sicily and The Sicily Divide is acting as a bridge for those who want to enjoy it.”
***
Adventure.com strives to be a low-emissions publication, and we are working to reduce our carbon emissions where possible. Emissions generated by the movements of our staff and contributors are carbon offset through our parent company, Intrepid. You can visit our sustainability page and read our Contributor Impact Guidelines for more information. While we take our commitment to people and planet seriously, we acknowledge that we still have plenty of work to do, and we welcome all feedback and suggestions from our readers. You can contact us anytime at hello@adventure.com. Please allow up to one week for a response.
Cían Byrne is an Irish travel writer who focuses on all things adventure travel. He often bites off more than he can chew which sees him (happily) on trails that are too steep and in snow that’s too deep. He is a regular contributor of words on Bikepacking.com, Condé Nast Traveller, and The Irish Independent.
