After years spent living abroad, writer Emily Barlow goes looking for a way to reconnect with her home state of New South Wales, Australia. On an electric-powered journey from Sydney to Byron Bay, she stops for surf, SUP-adventures and lessons from the land.
When the paperbark tree blossoms, it means the mullet fish are running up the creek from colder waters. When the tree bark sheds, it means sharks are prevalent in the deep ocean.
“We’re saltwater, freshwater people. We’ve got a lot of relations with the fish and plants that coincide with the water,” says our stand-up paddle boarding guide, Gumbaynggirr and Yirrganydji man, Ronan Singleton.
Though I’ve called Eora/Sydney home for most of my adult life, there are many sections of Australia’s famed east coast that I’ve never explored. And many things, like the traditional Indigenous uses of the paperbark tree, that I never learned. Until now.
I’m back in Australia—after living abroad in Canada—and hitting the road in the new all-electric Jeep Avenger with my surf-obsessed friend Ari Halder to learn more about the coast and Country. The chosen route: Gadigal land (Sydney) all the way up to Bundjalung country (Byron Bay), stopping for surf, SUP’ing and sleeping at EV-friendly Reflections Holidays along the way.
The weather is not exactly ideal—the region’s been flooding and even now, it’s raining. But ever the optimists, we pack our swimmers and a surfboard into the charged EV and hit the road, keen for that post-storm swell. We’re connected to the Avenger’s infotainment in an instant, so it’s maps at the ready, music pumping and high vibes.
Three hours north of the city, the Lakes Way scenic drive—stretching between Buladelah and Tuncurry—is more than scenic. For the unoriented, picture towering eucalyptus above winding roads, and cabbage tree palms and ferns coating the damp forest floor. Birds chirp animatedly. I’m impressed by how much grip and control we have as we cruise the tight bends.
We’re on the traditional lands of the Worimi Nation, made up of 18 tribes whose lands span inland to the coast.
We didn’t want to camp on this road trip, but hotels feel too removed from local life. My timber-lined cabin, surrounded by succulents, is the best of both worlds: Comfortable, but close to nature. After washing off the drive and the salt water, I have one of my best night’s sleep in ages, listening to the soundtrack of waves.
Beyond the dense forests, we’re greeted by the glistening Wallis Lake, an estuary spanning 16 miles (25 kilometers). As we cross a skinny isthmus, with the lake to our left and the Tasman Sea to our right, I gape at the expanse in both directions. I picture the Worimi people gathering shellfish and fishing for mullet in their waters—a staple food source through the seasons for Indigenous communities up and down the coast, I’m learning. We’ve already traced a beach-to-rainforest hiking trail in Booti Booti National Park just kilometers before.
Daan.gaari/Tuncurry is our final destination today. We arrive for a night at Reflections, one of eight parks along the NSW east coast newly kitted out with EV-charging stations. Very convenient. The charger is even close to our cabin front door—even more convenient. With the epic Nine-Mile Beach just 160 yards (150 meters) walk ahead, our evening location can only be improved by grabbing local fish and chips for dinner.
EV charging tip: The Jeep Avenger has a 240-mile (390-kilometer) range but highway driving uses a little more power than you might expect, so use the Evie or Chargefox app to find your nearest EV-charging station along the way. There are plenty around Newcastle. Then charge overnight at Tuncurry.
Our destination today is Bonny Hills, just an hour’s drive north. But a short drive doesn’t mean there’s less to do. Gazing at long stretches of rugged coastline brings down the tempo of any given day, and you can slow it down even further by stopping at Crowdy Bay National Park to check out its vast golden sand beaches and scrubby headland walking loops. Opening the Avenger’s sun roof to experience the silence of driving an EV is a must.
Bonny Hills’ verdant seaside landscape is the traditional lands of the Birpai people, an area rich with littoral rainforests, brahminy kite birds, eagles and fish. Lobsters, oysters and pipis were traditionally eaten here, while crab is a sacred salt water totem (spiritual emblem). What was once an undisturbed coast—as Birpai people settled in small villages along rivers and lakes—became decorated with wooden fishing shacks for local fishing enthusiasts in the 1940s, and is now home to large beach houses that shelter Bonny Hills’ small but tight-knit community. Still, there’s only one pub, a couple of cafés, and a whole lot of chill.
The ocean bellows directly below the headland, and a walking trail from the Reflections Holidays Bonny Hills park—our stay for the night—provides easy access to Rainbow Beach and continues along the coast to Port Macquarie.
“It’s absolutely cooking!” yells Ari as the exposed point break comes into view and the sun peeks through. Stoked on the clear conditions and a beach less crowded than his Sydney local, Ari’s got his board out of the roomy boot and his wetsuit on before I’ve turned the car off. Turns out the Bonny Hills secret is good swell.
We didn’t want to camp on this road trip, but hotels feel too removed from local life. My sleek, timber-lined cabin, surrounded by succulents, is the best of both worlds: Comfortable, but close to nature. After washing off the drive and the salt water, I have one of my best night’s sleep in ages, listening to the soundtrack of waves.
EV charging tip: Reflections Bonny Hills’ EV charging station is available from 9am til 5pm, so stay a little longer to make the most of the facilities and locale.
“Giinigay” (hello) says Ronan as he hands me a paddle and a soft paperbark leaf, inviting me to breathe in its eucalyptus scent. It’s immediately calming.
We’re embarking on a Wajaana Yaam SUP adventure up Moonee Creek on the Coffs Coast, the traditional land of the Gumbaynggirr people. As we push from the shore and start paddling, Ronan points out various bird species—eastern osprey and white-belly sea eagles are common—plus all the types of mangroves.
After the recent flooding, the mangroves’ important role in filtering dirty water and preventing soil erosion is even more apparent. And when I notice the way the tides flow in and out of their webbed and winding roots, how the mud crabs bunker down in the soil nearby, how mangrove jacks and estuary codfish flutter near the banks, I can’t help but appreciate the incredible ecosystem they foster.
“[Our culture] has been beaten in the past, and you know, we’re just trying to revitalize it, and the best way to do it is to share it.”
- Ronan Singleton, Guide
“Nothing wrong with a bit of mud between the toes,” Ronan says, as we walk barefoot in the squelchy, soft slush between these aerating plants. “People pay a lot of money for this stuff.”
The Gumbaynggirr language was in danger of being totally lost after the Stolen Generation, a multi-generational period (1910-1970s) where Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander children were forcibly removed from their families by the Australian federal and state governments. But in the last 10 years, there has been a concerted effort to bring it back. Wajaana Yaam’s owner Clark Webb established a school for local Aboriginal youth, where Ronan also teaches; and a portion of the SUP tour’s profits go to language programs and camps, among other initiatives, via the Bularri Muurlay Nyanggan Aboriginal Corporation (BMNAC).
“[Our culture] has been beaten in the past, and you know, we’re just trying to revitalize it, and the best way to do it is to share it,” says Ronan. A culture that is so welcoming and giving is one definitely worth sharing in, and this gives me hope that Australia’s future will better celebrate Indigenous knowledge and community.
Back in the car, I turn on the EV’s heated seats to warm up after being in the water. We’re less than two hours away from Reflections Evans Head. This stretch offers countless beaches and sleepy villages, accessed via single roads through a slew of coastal nature reserves and the mighty Yuraygir, Bundjalung and Broadwater National Parks.
Tonight, we’re staying on the banks of the Evans River, which meets the ocean. It’s dusk and it’s time to eat. As we heat up the barbecue on our spacious villa’s deck, perfect for al fresco dining, I notice a pod of pelicans congregating in the estuary to fish together. Are they reflecting on what they learned today, too? As the sun drops down they all slowly flock away; and everything is quiet, save for the ebb of the water and the hushed sounds of nearby campers settling in for the night.
EV charging tip: It’s worth stopping in Coffs Harbour en route for a quick charge and a snack. Reflections Evans Head has two charging stations to be easily utilized overnight.
A short early morning walk into Evans Head township shows me the friendly, warm nature of the place. I can’t resist checking out Sunnyboy—part-coffee shop, part-retail store, with delicious baked treats. As I’m reveling over an unbelievable spinach and feta scroll, the owner points out a woman sitting inside who does a lot of the baking. I want to tell her how incredible the pastries are, but I don’t need to—the line out the door says it all.
As we check out the surf by the North Break Wall, everyone who passes us says hello. “No-one says hi like this in the city,” Ari comments. We’re certainly not in Sydney anymore.
We’re keen to spin the Avenger on the hills again, so we take a short drive through a river crossing, arched gnarled trees and farmland to visit Killen Falls. From a platform overlooking the raucous cascade, we gaze up to the sprawling canopy and down at the moss-laden rocks by the pool below.
The surf’s not up, so we head inland for adventure. Beyond the famous beaches of Byron Bay, the Northern Rivers hinterland is known for its undulating pastures and locally grown produce.
Brunch is at WOODS in Bangalow, a town that’s equal parts artsy, laid-back community and world-class dining and fashion. The café’s menu is interwoven with locally sourced ingredients—Ari opts for Turkish-style eggs with Byron Bay halloumi, creamy tahini whipped yoghurt and Sequel sourdough (also made in Byron), with a mango and macadamia smoothie, and I tuck into a nourishing ‘harvest hinterland plate’: Miso gochujang mushrooms, poached eggs, avocado, herby salad. Rain pours as we sit sheltered next to folks selling jewellery, art and clothes in converted shipping containers.
We’re keen to spin the Avenger on the hills again, so we take a short drive through a river crossing, arched gnarled trees and farmland to visit Killen Falls. From a platform overlooking the raucous cascade, we gaze up to the sprawling canopy and down at the moss-laden rocks by the pool below.
On a warmer day, I’d take a dip in those waters, but today, it’s enough to cautiously move behind the veil of the falls to feel its rupture. The spray on my skin and the overwhelming sound drowns out all else, and I can’t stop my grin despite my now soaking trousers.
Though floodplains deterred us, this trip has reminded me how beautiful home can be at any time of year. When the sun breaks through, it’s blissful. But even without it, this 470-mile (750-kilometer) journey has shown me not only the ease of EV travel, but how resilient, adaptive and diverse the east coast landscape and its deep-rooted communities are.
Find out more about the affordable, adventurous Jeep Avenger EV, then book your next road trip to a Reflections Holidays destination with EV-charging stations.
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Adventure.com acknowledges the complexity and challenges of travel in the context of our global climate crisis. This article is part of Adventure.com’s paid partnerships program, which enables us to continue publishing stories about a more regenerative and sustainable future of travel by helping to make out platform commercially viable. Adventure.com only partners with brands and products that align with our ethical and editorial standards, and our vision for a future of travel built around lower emissions, deeper connection and more resilient communities.
Emily Barlow is a travel and lifestyle journalist from Sydney, Australia and Adventure.com's Head of Partnerships. She's big on backpacking remote mountains and slow expedition-style travel, skiing, lake-hopping, and trying all the local food.
